SOMM Journal

2020 CABERNET SAUVIGNON - STELLA'S VINEYARD

96 Points  SOMM Journal

THE TASTING PANEL MAGAZINE.  JAN/FEB 2024

Flying the Flag for Paso Robles

CHATEAU MARGENE MAY NOT BE A BIG PLAYER, BUT ITS OUTREACH IN CHAMPIONING THE REGION IS SIGNIFICANT

Of the 11 districts that make up Paso Robles’ 660,000 acres of vines, Creston is relatively unknown. Chateau Margene winemaker/proprietor Michael Mooney and his wife, Margene, find the area conducive to growing Bordeaux varieties and farm grapes on their estate, producing no more than 3,000 cases annually—a fraction of the amount yielded by some of the larger producers on Paso’s ever- growing roster of mascots. “Creston District is under the radar—a lot of grapes are grown here, but I couldn’t name but a few wineries,” Mooney told The Tasting Panel.

Chateau Margene and the couple’s other label, Mooney Family Wines—made with grapes sourced from outside the estate—are not only small production but sold directly to restaurants and consumers. Yet Mooney is a big voice for the trade who stays visible within the community as a member of the Paso Robles CAB Collective, for which he’s served on the board from the beginning. “I’m a believer in Paso Robles,” Mooney said. “It is truly a distinct region that deserves recognition.”

Mooney Family 2021 Steel Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey County ($54) Fermented in closed-top stainless-steel tanks at 60 degrees Fahrenheit for 18 days, this wineis malolactic-inhibited and cold-stabilized, then moved to stainless-steel barrels. Ample flavors of honey-lathered pear are rich yet reined in by underlying minerality as powdered marshmallow and oregano-kissed lime chiffon spread across the palate. Bright acidity highlights the wine’s steely cutting edge. 94

Mooney Family 2021 Pinot Noir, Sta. Rita Hills, Santa Barbara County ($90) This small-pro- duction Pinot Noir with notes of spiced cedar, blueberry-painted clove, and cigar leaf spent 23 months in (33% new) medium-toast François Frères barrels. Deep and inviting, the taste of soil is undeniable, prickling the tongue with black pepper and dried violets. 94

Chateau Margene 2020 Margene Cabernet Franc, Creston District, Paso Robles ($110) Much cel- ebrated in Paso Robles, Cabernet Franc is Margene Mooney’s favorite variety; this blend of 90% Cabernet Franc from Michael’s Vineyard with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon (Clone 47) from Stella’s Vineyard, aged 23 months in both French and American oak, showcases it in all its glory. Violetscloaked in espresso and a slate under- belly define the bold red with supple tannins. Vivacious plum skin texturizes the palate, adding a grainy feel to an extended finish that conveys the wine’s precision and balance. 95

Chateau Margene 2020 Cask 4, Creston District, Paso Robles ($210) Aged 32 months in (100% new) French and American oak, this 50/50 blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon is sumptuous, silky, and balanced, with notes of toasted cedar and creamy blueberry preserves. Licorice and slate intertwine as a stream of dark chocolate coats the tongue. Beautifully structured, with the sturdy foundation of a skyscraper. 99

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2024 ~ THE TASTING PANEL